Hi, It’s Kansas Bill again, I reread the “Steel Keel” article found a few errors that slipped in, the steel plate is ¾”thick & the “Pocket Ref”book for ¾” should be 30.6 lbs/ sq ft that makes the “Steel Plate” about 80 lbs, so the total would be 105 lbs. No one has contacted me directly to get the details to fabricate a keel so I guess these corrections are not critical to those reading the article.
 
I have five more “Mods” that have made my NorseBoat easier to sail:

(A) Added spring loaded “Guide Arms” to the trailer, so the boat centers on the trailer, also replaced the aft roller with a self centering roller made by Stoltz (West Marine #7737620). The  “Guide Arms” are built from a road sign post that someone knock  down out side where I worked, wheels were ordered through “Overton’s” from “Taylor” they are  the 9” Diameter used on their “Corner Mount Inflatable Dock Wheels” and  they cost less than ½ of what the whole “Corner Mount” cost. I used  some scrap aluminum channel to mount the “Arms” to the trailer, then run steel light chain with the heaviest springs I found at “Lowes”to the center hole in the aft frame on the trailer secured both chains with a ¼” bolt,nut & two washers.

(B) Fabricated a cover for the fore deck cleat to keep the jib sheets from snagging when tacking, it is the bottom of a Minute Maid Orange Juice 96 oz container, cut it about 21/4”above the bottom & add a block of ½” “StarBoard” or polyethylene polymer sheet ( McMaster-Carr #8769K71 a 12”X 12” X ½”sheet) 21/2”long X 1”wide,drill a 27/64”hole centered at ½”up from the bottom, then slot the hole to the top edge slightly narrower than the hole & file to get a tight  push fit over the cleat. Then mount the block inside center of container bottom with two #6 sheet metal screws, you might need to do a little trimming to get a snap on with a tight fit to the deck.

(C) To get a better down haul on the Main, I gave up the two “Down Hauls” supplied by NorseBoat, by adding a single becket block attached to the hook supplied for reefing with a “Light Duty Block Hanger,Ronstan RF181, this gave boom clearance for the block when hooked to the sail while reefed  (an extra long shackle might work). This gives a three part purchase when the Downhaul line is rove through the starboard deck turning block, up through the sheave of the single becket  block then down through the port deck turning block back up to the becket & secured. During none reefed operation the hook is dropped into the Eye nut on the boom hoop attachment fitting, thus producing a tight luff on the Main.

(D) To prevent water from Rooster Tailing into the boat when sailing rail down, I have moved the Jib Sheet “Cam Swivel Base”from the big hockey puck on the deck to an aluminum angle (shelved the puck) secured to the inside of the coaming , now the water stays in the lake.

(E) To get my boat on Cheney Lake, the ramp I use has a real gentle slope so to keep my car from floating about the same time the boat will float, I added a 7’launching bar, like those used to launch fixed keel boats, just look at the pictures to see how I install & stow it.
 
Here is a Seamanship tip for loading ANY boat on a trailer. If the Wind is any direction other than down wind to the trailer head your boat directly into the wind so that when  you reach the trailer the boat is ½ to 1/3 it’s length away at a speed just enough to have steerage, when you are ABEAM the trailer(1/2 to 1/3 boat length turn on to the trailer, trick is to know how much power is needed and how much counter thrust is required to meet and stop the turn (here is where my spring loaded “Guide Arms” allow for some error). Best to try this type maneuver in open water away from the ramp to get a feel for how the boat will react during the turn, so the correct amount and direction of thrust to meet the turn and keep the boat headed straight on a trailer is known. One other thing about loading a boat on a trailer, is that physics plays a trick on every one, the boat floats level but the trailer is on a slope and when they both  get on solid ground the boat will always fall back and try to pull the winch post out or break winch line/strap, to correct this high preload on a bunk type trailer, apply the tow vehicle brakes hard, this will allow the boat to slide on wet bunks to engage the bow stop then hook up the safety chain, on my boat I use a “Boomer” that’s why there is another item above the winch and bow roller in the pictures of my boat on the trailer.
 
You were looking for more input, so here you go, this is almost a book, also why I did not “Sail” my boat till a month after delivery, was dunking it on and off the trailer to get it rigged like my Windrose 18 which I sailed from 1975 to 2006.
 
Kansas Bill