The same concept for my “Mast Handler” could be set up using a short section of PVC Pipe to fit the mast between the deck and below the boom stop clamp, about 8” long, with a “T” hinge mounted at the bottom. The tricky part is how to mount the “T” part of the hinge to the deck since there is a collar around the hole the mast passes thru and three standup blocks plus the jib furling line, in the area. But the PVC Pipe would only need enough material removed to allow resizing it to match the mast diameter, and then mount a worm drive clamp (or some other type clamp) for securing the mast butt to the PVC Pipe after lifting the mast till it clears the deck and is at the hinge point, tighten the clamp before tipping the mast over.

My experience tipping the mast on my driveway while standing next to it on the aft side I just tipped it over, then walked aft with it until the mast rested in the “U” shaped board that was propped up so the “U” was 59” above the pavement, then I measured the truck of the mast and it was right at 70” which is equal to 1.8 meter so my mockup gives me confidence that one person handle the mast ”Tip Over” without getting on the fore deck. After the “Tip Over”, tension must be put on the mast with a halyard to be sure the upper mast cannot slip out of the lower mast. I recommend using the jib halyard with an “S” hook pined to the jib swivel and just stow the furled jib on the foredeck so it is not draped across the mast pivot area, just hook the halyard in the open mast butt and cleat it off after the mast has been laid over with the existing cam cleat to hold the tension. When you are clear the “Low Bridge” the swivel could be repined to the jib head with out getting on the foredeck then reaching out to the end of the bowsprit. I have preformed the “Tip Over” on my front lawn using a “Mock Up” since my boat is still in the “Shop” getting the floor cracks repaired; I have the entire sailing rig at home. Found that there is no need to disconnect the other halyards, just lower them, put two bungee or straps around the sail and boom at the aft end and the other around sail and boom at the end of the gaff, which leaves the sail holding the gaff near the boom. That sexy looking curved gaff must be treated special, don’t tension the peak halyard, I know Kevin says to use the peak halyard to hold a furled main up, but when you “Tip Over” it won’t dance with the boom because of it’s geometry and gets in a bind. Not having the boat I spread some cardboard on the ground to keep the sail and boom off the grass and dirt, found that the boom aft end moves 36” during the mast up to the down cycle with it off to one side like it was laying on the seat in the boat, need to figure a way to allow the movement with out tearing things up or getting hung up about half way in the cycle. (Note; it slid along the cardboard just fine so a piece of cardboard might be the answer) 

Now the support for the mast could be just a simple solid board with a “Y” fabricated for the top and two pintles fabricated for the bottom to match the gudgeons on the transom, plus a very substantial method to keep the mast captured in the “Y”and the pintles engaged in the gudgeons. My experience on my Windrose 18’s mast jumping out of the “Y” after a storm had passed thru the area, it was held down with a DC-9 Pilot’s seat belt which was strong enough but had no way to get a lot of tension on it, so when it rained and the wind got to blowing it made the mast pump and I would find it hanging by the seat belt next to the top of the pole. So I think just the motion of the NorseBoat in the water would get the mast pumping enough to jump the “Y”. The method I would recommend is to install an “Eye Bolt” just below the “Y” large enough to handle two ¼” lines, then run a line from one aft mooring cleat thru the “Eye Bolt” over the mast one full turn then back thru the “Eye Bolt” down to the opposite aft mooring cleat, note be sure the line leads from the center of both mooring cleats to the “Eye Bolt” so it can’t pull off a cleat horn. This will also stabilize mast support laterally.

With the Boom, Sail, Gaff & Halyards all left on the mast, then lashing the halyards tight to the mast; the boat floor would be clear except for the need to duck under the mast or row with your head cocked to one side, if motoring allow the boom, sail & gaff bundle stow on seat opposite the side the motor is on.

PS: To handle the “Tip Over” with the Dodger installed I developed a “Mast Lifter” similar a “Fence Post Puller” used by farmers & rancher’s to salvage steel posts when they change a fence location. The pictures will show how it looks & is used, so I will just give you a list of the parts used to build it.

Parts List: 

3” PVC 45 degree elbow (cut an 11/2” ring out of the center to give the offset for the chain attachment

1”X 11/2” rubber 3/16” thick (attached to inside of PVC ring with a hollow end rivet)

1” square of inner tube rubber attached with rug two sided tape,( see picture for locations).
 
Light chain machine straight, 1 foot long ( this chain was rated for 210#, attach with a #10 FH X ¾” screw, countersink inside the PVC,use washer & nut over last link of chain)

Rubber band size #64 hitched thru last link opposite the end screwed to the PVC ring, attach a plastic wire clip with a pop rivet to the Lever 16”back from the slotted end, this will secure the chain while it is engaged in the slot. Use the rubber band to hold the chain when You wrap it on the ring while sailing, this will need a notch cut in the PVC ring to tension and hold the chain. 

Material to fabricate the “Lever, one shown in the pictures is a sheet aluminum “U” that is 32” long, 7/8” wide & 15/16” deep, formed out of .064” sheet, was on hand and easy to cut a slot with across slot to grip the light chain link by link to get the correct geometry, also the  Channel shape allowed the use of a simple post to nest in it to serve as the pivot. The link slot gives a quick disconnect point since I would let the ring and chain stay on the mast. The parts required mounting the “T” part of the hinge; the pivot post height and location of its pivot on the lever are not specified since I do   not have my boat on hand to prove an exact location.

I can tell you that when I rigged up the dodger as pictures show the hinge pivot had to be 10” above the level I calculated to be deck level to have 21” of mast stuck thru the deck. When the mast was tipped over it would just clear the aft top of the dodger and “Y” support set for that angle, the mast top (truck) was under 70” or 1.8 meter. The method of walking the mast forward to set it upright while leaning over the dodger is difficult on my driveway, so when afloat I feel you will need a second crew member to hold the sail, boom and gaff bundle help guide the mast to match the hole in the deck, then wiggle till it drops in the socket (could require opening the forward hatch to get the mast butt settled in the socket or to be sure it has indeed properly seated)..

This “Tip Over Mod” sounds so good that I think it would be a better way to store my boat, since I need to set up a ridge pole to support the boat cover and the mast would serve that purpose, would just need to slide it forward till the mast that matches the transom then protect both ends with soft pads, so they will not poke a holes in the cover. Then I would be all set to sail, when I put the mast  up and reconnect the jib halyard.

Thanks Charles for challenging my brain, I thought this was just for you to get under a bridge, now I get to kill two birds with one stone, no halyards to reeve or take the mast apart and stow.