From Norseboat owner Kansas Bill:

 I now have the “Mast Lowering System” installed on my boat; it required a little adjustment to my “Mock Up” System to allow for the “Bow Sprit” which had not been considered before. 

The installation is designed to fill the needs of a single handed sailor, so the whole rig can be used as a ridge pole for my “Off the Shelf Boat Cover”. Then I slide the mast aft till it is just below 4” PVC mast holder. Next I walk forward raising the mast till it is vertical then lower it thru the deck and wiggle it till the “Butt” engages the mast step. Note I don’t use my “Dodger” so that would need to be folded down and a second person could be positioned on the foredeck to grab the near vertical mast while the original lifter gives an assist by holding the boom to stabilize and help raise it to vertical. This might make too much work, but remember when my mast is up I only need to take my jib halyard from its stowed position and connect to the jib and then to the furling drum, with the furling line the only line that is rerove to be ready to sail. To keep the main sail in some order I wrap a bungee around the boom and sail but let the gaff free to move independently (remember in my mockup I found it would not dance with the boom). The halyards must be secured to the mast near the mast splice so they stay orderly until the mast is set and some tension is applied, this is because when the mast is pulled up to tip over, all halyards will be pulled back thru their cam cleats up to their stopper knots then when the mast is slid forward they will droop and find places to get tangled, like all lines do.

 Materials used to construct the “bridge” to keep the hinge / PVC holder clear of the blocks and the raised deck the mast is stepped thru are two pieces of 2 inch square aluminum tubing (architectural grade) with ½ X 11/8 inch aluminum bar stock shims, theses were required because the height of the square strap that secures the bow sprit would not allow the mast to be slid over it while the top of the mast was still over the transom. Note: you can split the mast at the splice joint but this can allow any of the slack halyards to switch to wrong side of the mast before get the splice back together again. The angle to span the area is extrusion 1 X 1 3/8 inch with the 1” leg 0.154” thick and the other leg 0.100”thick aluminum (structural aircraft grade) the angle is slightly less than 90degrees but has no effect on the action of the “T” hinge that is mounted on it to control pivoting of the mast. All parts of the system are fastened with 10-24 SS machine screws and lock nuts, the four screws thru the deck securing the 2 inch tubes have 0.050” aluminum plates with two holes to spread their load on the underside of the deck. 

The pictures show better than words how these parts need to be assembled so a NB can go from the rig being stowed to ready to raise sails in a lot less time than reeving three halyards thru six blocks so all are fair.